How to Get from Beppu Station to Takegawara Onsen & Onsen Experience | Perfect for Solo Travelers!

Beppu: The Ultimate Destination for Hot Springs and Gourmet Delights!

This time, I took a bus and train from Kitsuki to visit the renowned hot spring town of Beppu. (Check out my previous blog!) No trip to Beppu would be complete without stopping by Takegawara Onsen, a historic public bathhouse. Afterward, I indulged in fresh seafood at the popular local restaurant Kaisen Izutsu, enjoying a delicious and reasonably priced seafood bowl. Join me as I share my solo adventure exploring Beppu’s best hot springs and gourmet food!

Takegawara Onsen: A Retro Hot Spring Icon of Beppu

One of Beppu’s must-visit hot springs is Takegawara Onsen, an establishment with over 140 years of history. Founded in 1879 (Meiji 12), this historic bathhouse stands as a symbol of Beppu’s rich hot spring culture.

The History and Features of Takegawara Onsen

The name “Takegawara Onsen” comes from its original bamboo-thatched roof. Later renovations replaced the bamboo with tiles, but the name remained unchanged.

The current building was constructed in 1938 (Showa 13) and features a stunning karahafu-style (curved gable) roof, often seen in traditional Japanese temples and shrines. The majestic architecture creates an atmosphere that transports visitors back in time.

Inside, the high ceilings and wooden interiors exude a nostalgic charm reminiscent of early Showa-era Japan. There is also a tatami-matted resting area, offering a cozy space to relax after your bath.

How to Get to Takegawara Onsen

Takegawara Onsen is located about a 10-minute walk from JR Beppu Station. However, some GPS routes may lead you through the red-light district. To ensure a safe and pleasant walk, I recommend the following route:

Exit Beppu Station from the East Exit (toward the seaside).

You’ll see a hand bath monument, a small hot spring for soaking your hands—perfect for getting into the onsen mood!

Walk straight down the main road (Ekimae-dori).

On your right, you’ll pass Bluebird Theater, an old-fashioned cinema that has been operating since 1949.

Turn right at the pachinko parlor.

This leads you into the Sol Paseo Ginza Shopping Arcade, a nostalgic street lined with retro-style restaurants and bars.

The shopping arcade is lined with traditional restaurants and izakayas that retain the charm of the Showa era. The retro atmosphere creates a nostalgic feeling, making it a delightful place to explore.

Along the way, you’ll find intriguing spots like “Game Bar B-Dash,” where you can enjoy retro games.

Continue through the shopping arcade until you reach the main road (Nagarekawa-dori).

Turn left and walk about 100 meters towards the seaside, then turn left again to reach Takegawara Onsen.

With its Showa-era atmosphere and charming streets, this 10-minute walk will feel like a journey through time. Enjoy the stroll while soaking in the nostalgic vibes of Beppu!

Experience Report of Takegawara Onsen

Takegawara Onsen is not a modern hot spring facility like a super sento but rather a traditional communal bathhouse. Therefore, keep the following points in mind:

• There are no showers in the bathhouse, so you must scoop hot water from the tub to wash yourself.
• No body soap or shampoo is provided, so bring your own if needed.
• Towels and soap sets are available for purchase at the reception, so you can buy them on-site if you forget to bring your own.

Since this facility offers an authentic experience of Japan’s historical onsen culture, those expecting fully equipped facilities may find it surprising. However, the charm lies in the retro atmosphere, where you can immerse yourself in traditional Japanese bathing culture.

Upon entering, the reception staff provides guidance. They ask whether you want to use the regular bath or the sand bath and carefully explain the rules. Despite being a weekday, the onsen was lively and filled with visitors.

The sand bath is on the left side, while the regular bath is on the right.

Since I opted for the regular bath, I purchased a ticket for 300 yen from the vending machine. Conveniently, electronic payment and QR code payment options were available. If you don’t bring towels or soap, you can buy the tickets and get them at the reception.

Before the changing room, there are coin lockers for valuables (100 yen, non-refundable).

Highlights of the Bathhouse

The reception provides a detailed explanation of bathing etiquette. Unlike modern hot springs, Takegawara Onsen has no showers. Following the traditional style, you scoop hot water from the bath to wash yourself before entering. Additionally, the edge of the bathtub is designed for resting your head, so avoid sitting or standing on it.

This simple yet historic onsen allows you to fully appreciate the ambiance and tradition of old-fashioned Japanese bathhouses.

The Popular Sand Bath

Another highlight of Takegawara Onsen is its famous sand bath. You lie down on heated sand, and the staff covers you with warm sand from head to toe. The gentle heat and weight of the sand gradually seep into your body, creating a soothing, enveloping sensation. Unlike a sauna, this treatment provides a unique warming effect and helps promote sweating and detoxification.

The sand bath costs 1,500 yen and is highly popular, so waiting times may occur after reception. It tends to be crowded, especially during the tourist season and weekends, so visiting with extra time in your schedule is recommended.

Since I had previously experienced a sand bath in Ibusuki, Kagoshima, I chose the regular bath this time. Comparing the differences between Takegawara Onsen and Ibusuki’s sand bath could be an interesting experience.

After the bath, I enjoyed a drink and participated in a short survey at the reception. By showing my completed survey on my phone, I received an original Takegawara Onsen sticker as a souvenir.

Basic Information of Takegawara Onsen

Enjoying a Fresh Seafood Bowl at Kaisen Izutsu

After soaking in the hot springs, the best way to complete the experience is by indulging in Beppu’s fresh seafood. This time, I visited Kaisen Izutsu, a popular local seafood restaurant. Conveniently located just a 3-minute walk from Takegawara Onsen, this spot is known for its generous portions and affordable prices.

The restaurant has counter seating, making it a great option for solo diners.

Expect Crowds at Lunchtime! As noted in many reviews on food websites, the service is on the slower side, and table turnover is low. To avoid long waits, visiting outside of peak lunch hours is recommended.

I arrived shortly after the restaurant opened at 11 AM, but it was already bustling with customers. It took about 20 minutes for my food to be served after ordering. If you’re planning to visit, allow extra time to enjoy your meal without feeling rushed.

I ordered the seafood bowl set (1,400 yen). The bowl was packed with plenty of fresh seafood, and I was amazed at the great value for the price! The rich umami of the fresh fish was incredibly satisfying, especially after warming up in the hot springs.

Looking around the restaurant, I noticed many customers ordering the “Ryukyu Don”. Initially, I thought it was an Okinawan dish, but after looking it up, I found out that it’s actually a local specialty from Oita. This dish consists of marinated fish served over rice and is loved by both locals and tourists alike. Next time, I’d love to try Ryukyu Don!

Summary

This time, I took a bus and train from Kitsuki to Beppu for a solo trip, visiting the historic Takegawara Onsen and enjoying fresh seafood at Kaisen Izutsu.

• Takegawara Onsen: A nostalgic, retro-style hot spring in Beppu. Experience the traditional bathing style with no showers and don’t miss the famous sand bath!
• Access: The recommended route to Takegawara Onsen passes through the retro Sol Paseo Ginza shopping street, allowing you to enjoy the Showa-era atmosphere on the way.
• Kaisen Izutsu: Just a 3-minute walk from Takegawara Onsen, this popular restaurant serves affordable and generously portioned seafood bowls!

This relaxing hot spring and seafood experience is perfect for solo travelers. Walking through Beppu’s nostalgic streets, I was able to fully enjoy the unique charm of this historic town.

Next time, I’d love to explore Beppu’s lesser-known hot springs and try the local specialty, Ryukyu Don!